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For a country consisting mainly of the Sahara, you'll be surprised to see how pleasantly Mediterranean it can be along its northern coast. From ancient Greek and Roman ruins to modern art and oil money, Libya's a world unto itself. The Libyan people enjoy a well-earned reputation for kindness and hospitality toward visitors, and its streets and souqs are free of the hassles of touts and their hard sell. Even Colonel Mu'ammar Gaddafi has been trying to renew ties with the outside world and is styling himself as a unifier and pacifier.